纽约时装周 2008秋冬男装－Nautica

或許2008在某方面可以說是奧運剛結束，話題漸歇的休息時刻。不過對時尚界來說，諸多競技項目炒得火熱之後，運動風尚在本季秋冬仍方興未艾。在紐約時裝週中，Nautica這個以運動為核心精神的時尚品牌，自然就在這個系列中加入了眾多Sporty元素。設計總監Mirian Lamberth在這季男裝系列中，決定更加強調貼身的視覺輪廓，這是她第2次為品牌操刀，看來已經相當能夠掌握品牌的精髓。她說：「滑雪是本季服裝的靈感來源。」因此，如何能夠兼顧肢體運動的靈活度與保暖度，就非常考驗著設計師的品味。和品牌對材質面料的取捨（畢竟滑雪對普通人來說，頂多只能是種時髦的趣味，並不能作為retail的銷售主力）。

高科技材質面料營造了本季Nautica男裝的chic風貌，讓普通的灰也有了時尚的未來感。其它色彩方面，鵝黃色、寶藍色、銀色、蕃茄紅、銘白色，塊面的高彩度視覺效果，讓Nautica男人無論在一片白茫茫的雪地，或者在灰黑的都市叢林中，都非常耀眼、格外有型。夾棉、羽絨外套，搭配貼身的高科技材質保暖褲，足登高筒雪靴，是雪地運動的裝束。而一套灰色西裝搭配淺藍色襯衫、黃色領帶，與條紋圍巾，看似是正式晚裝的保守打扮（講真的藍與黃這種配色，可以說是最恐怖的80年代懷舊風），其實暗藏著小小的顛覆，仔細看開襟背心被穿到西上裝外頭。這樣大膽的怪異，說實在的並不適合這個總強調健康作風的品牌。

February 1, 2008

Appropriately for an Olympic year, New York fashion week opened with a shot of high-octane activewear, courtesy of Nautica. The inspiration was the sport of ice-sailing, whose speed and ferocity were established with an opening video, so the literalness of the aerodynamic second-skin items that came down the catwalk was scarcely a surprise. (Though one might have expected a bit more padding.) Creative director Mirian Lamberth, now in her second season with the label, came from Tommy Hilfiger, and her new gig is as much about the old red, white, and blue as her last one. But her woman's touch elevated all that competitive testosterone. As she said after the show, "This is the way a woman sees men."

High-tech sports pieces aside, Lamberth's vision created an appealing mash-up of formal and casual, cashmere and nylon, as in a brown nylon peacoat over a cream cashmere sweater or—the reverse—a charcoal jacket over red nylon pants. Cargo pants were cut in pinstripe and herringbone wool; classic outerwear was reconfigured in tech fabrics. For evening, shawl-collared velvet jackets were worn with indigo denims, a white windbreaker took the place of a tuxedo vest, and a puffer stood in for a tux jacket. The easy dressiness fitted right in with Lamberth's mission statement. An even better fit was the slouchy indolence of a cable-knit robe—or the final parade of 12-packs in long johns.

— Tim Blanks

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