纽约时装周 2008秋冬男装－Michael Kors

歌手艾美懷斯也許不是希特勒喜歡的型，因為希特勒總是喜歡金髮且一本正經的美女。但Michael Kors秋季系列，卻巧妙地將這兩個形象鮮明的人物融入設計概念中。當伸展台燈光暗下，攝影師捕捉著已逝的時尚名人：Natasha Richardson, Sigourney Weaver, Debra Messing, and Ellen Pompeo，緊接著，有如三０年代美國影星Kim Novak形象的模特兒，踩著比艾美懷斯還趾高氣昂的腳步出場，她們穿著淡紫色與橄欖綠印花窄身剪裁上衣、粗呢大衣、以及搭配長窄裙款的駝色套裝; 在喀什米爾毛衣與豹紋印花的七分褲外，搭配奢華質感的貂皮大衣; 或以滑順手感的貂毛披肩，搭配毛呢夾克與蘇格蘭彩格毛料裙，手裡都挽著復古時尚包。晚宴系列中，她們穿著金色露肩飄逸洋裝或是迷人的銀色蝴蝶結長禮服，而以合身剪裁、結合宮廷風格拖尾設計的晚禮服，則是出席大型宴會的最佳選擇。

Michael Kors的秋天新作重新詮釋retro，更多點宮廷般豪華視覺觀感。Michael Kors作品中，「歡欣鼓舞」這個重要元素，更在配件系列發揮得淋漓盡致。本季新作中，Michael Kors一如往常地將設計概念完整呈現於作品中，融合六０年代早期與好萊塢風格的復古時尚，也許他應該捨棄「決戰時尚伸展台」，投入以六０年代紐約廣告公司、充滿陽剛沙文主義的「Mad Man」影集的演出？

February 6, 2008

"Men love clothes in Hollywood," Michael Kors said backstage before his show. "I'm sure Eric Dane thinks about clothes more than his wife, Rebecca." The Danes were in the front row, alongside costar Ellen Pompeo, Debra Messing, Raquel Welch, Sigourney Weaver, and Natasha Richardson, to see Kors' take on something he called "The Reel Life," mixing timeless and tabloid. For the women, that high/low thing meant Hitchcock blonde with a shot of Amy Winehouse. For the men, in their heavy horn rims and snap-brim hats, it was more Cary Grant with the mean streak of Mad Men. It worked.

Kors left no smart-guy classic untouched: From cashmere sweater set to camel blazer, from herringbone crombie to sharkskin suit, he re-created a capsule wardrobe for a thrusting young exec circa '63. But, just as the iciness of his women was warmed up by a hint of Winehouse, he brought his retro references up to the present with the punky fuzz of a saffron mohair sweater, or a shearling-lined duffel coat in viscous black patent. One conspicuous absentee from his lineup? Anything sporty, like sweatpants. Kors wants his young Hollywoodites to be dressed for the paps at all times.

— Tim Blanks

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