纽约时装周 2008秋冬男装－DKNY

以紐約都會風著稱的DKNY，在紐約秋冬時裝周秀出的08新作，DKNY在紐約藝術氣息濃厚的格林威治村裡一座倉庫辦秀，未設座位，連設計師Donna Karan也跟賓客一起在伸展台下站著看秀，流露品牌率性自在而親和的個性。本季Karan將所有的設計風格都擺在年輕都會的主題—如制服般幾近雷同的服飾一一出現在秀場中僅有的14款男性Look，不論是色調或使用的布料材質，全都是最基本、值得信賴的安全設計。

本季 DKNY 的男裝系列，也打算為男士搭配好完整的服裝 Look，不一定是預科生，也不見得有多麼叛逆，以大量的黑色調仍是整個系列的主軸，一件顏色鮮明得運動夾克，棉質的合身外套，內搭綠色的皮革或最具代表性的 V 領羊毛衫，以及鮮豔紅色的領巾，如軍靴般英挺的鞋款，軟化不少黑色系的剛硬線條，讓整個服裝霎時變得鮮活起來，這些細節，都足夠讓男人在秋冬也能有年輕活力的學院風貌。

February 3, 2008

The initials were huge in red across the back of the catwalk, which was red as well. But the 14 men's outfits that were sprinkled amid the show Donna Karan staged for her second line could've used a bit more heat. That already signposted red provided a welcome accent in a sweater or a tie or a scarf, but otherwise, jackets and jeans said it all, really. The jacket was anything from a classic blazer to a leather blouson to a damped-down combat to a chunky cardigan—all dark and uniformly paired with the indigo jeans that were the sole trouser option.

Layering is an emerging story for fall '08. Wool over nylon, for instance. This show also offered a cardigan over a jacket—and its reverse. There was a hint of technical expertise at work in the way a major cardie could fit under a wool blazer. And a few seasons back, Donna declared her intent to get the DKNY man in a tie. That's clearly a battle she's won: All the young gents in this show sported a collar and tie to make their mothers proud. But still, one burning question went unanswered—what would the DKNY girl in her flouncy Biba-influenced finery make of the screwed-up-tight DKNY boy?

— Tim Blanks

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